Elk-Proof Fence That Works!

 

 

Traditional Elk Fencing. Most elk fencing used in Alaska, Arizona, Colorado, Idaho, New Mexico, Colorado and throughout the West measures 7’-8’ tall. Past experience stipulated that going to greater heights or electrifying the fence was the best way to elk and deer out of a designated area. Federal and state agencies use high fences to protect highway frontage, pastures, and elected land. This fencing can be expensive, time consuming and difficult to install, and may not be ascetically appealing for homeowners.

Elk Proof with Double Fence. We have another fence design that is simple, well designed, long lasting,  environmentally friendly,  and attractive. It is a barrier that offers another path toward elk and deer proofing your precious landscaping and gardens. No tall fencing is needed, just smarter fencing. Simply, it consists of two fences – four feet tall and four feet apart.

 

Our first attempt to create a garden for our family gave us plenty of wildlife experiences - but no vegetables. The rabbits, gophers and especially deer and elk destroyed the plants before they grew large enough to ripen. Sometimes the elk would just walk around in the garden, tasting everything, and never actually eating anything. They trampled everything, thus ruining hard work in our garden. The first attempt at garden fencing was a 4 ft tall vintage, looped wire design. It was beautiful, but useless when it came to elk.

 

Our bedroom overlooked the flower and vegetable garden, so we kept our window slightly ajar and listened for the invaders throughout the night. Using this technique, we harvested plenty of sleep deprivation, and gained an education into the nocturnal habits of Rocky Mountain elk (Cervus elaphus nelsoni).

Observing these large, horse-sized creatures trying to enter the garden always followed a precise well-learned process, and was usually instigated by cow (female) elk. Below are the methods they use:

 

Sizing up the fence. First the elk push against the fence. This tells the elk how tall and how sturdy the fence is built. Elk prefer to enter a garden or yard by simply muscling their way into the structure. It's safer for them and they aren't as likely to get tangled in wire or fencing material. If the fence is not extremely strong (which many are not) this is a fastest way for the large creatures to get to potential food.

 

Fence Jumping. If the elk are unsuccessful at pushing a fence down, they will attempt to jump from a standing position. The jump is usually easy for them, even at heights of 6 feet or more. Watching these creatures jump a fence looks quite effortless. In reality, they jump only after careful consideration and sizing up the height and width. If they have jumped the fence in the past, elk biologists have told me that the animals have a way of remembering it. As they jump, many elk will “tap” the top of a fence line with a hind foot when they jump. When I heard this, I watched them closely, and many elk certainly do tap fences, especially the cows. Experts believe their brains “remember” each fence in their territory and store its height for reference when fleeing predators.

 

Repeated process. Each night, the elk started their practiced routine: pushing, bumping, leaning, and finally jumping into forbidden area. The elk would enter and exit the garden on the same side, always on the farthest side from the house.

 

Think Outside the Fence. After reading a pioneer Alaskan’s advice on moose fencing, and watching the elk purge our garden night after night, we decided to add another fence outside of the original garden fence. We outlined the fence so that it was 4 feet away from the first one. It was made from cedar poles with 3 rails, measuring about the same height, 48 inches. The results were immediate and unfailing. We had one elk purge the garden fence in 5 years. We left the gate open and she was actually “trapped” between the 2 fences.

 

Size Matters. Elk do not like being restrained in small spaces. They will enter a small area if they can quickly escape - but as prey animals, if they cannot flee, they do not feel. This  game animal behavior is the basis for the double fence design. Our specifications are below. 

 

I   Install the 48-52” high inside fence first. This fence works best if it is made of livestock wire. Our garden was 25 feet square (25’ x 25’ x 25’ x 25’). We do this because we can         purchase a 100 foot roll of fencing. You could have some left over. You will nee to plan ahead for a gate and we left the tops of posts high - up to 72” tall. These tall posts create        nice spaces for bird houses, gathering baskets and other garden décor. 

 

Measure 4 feet from inside fence, and then install the outside fence. (We originally determined this space with one of our horses as a model, standing her between the proposed outside and inside fences. She’s a big mare, and 4 feet was tight for her, so we decided to use the dimensions for our fence separation).

 

 Use split cedar, three-rail or wooden slats for outside fence. This fence should be minimum 48” tall. The tops of the 6 foot posts should be set at about 50”, placing them about 22” deep. Pack and tamp them well. The sturdiness of the posts is crucial. Elk will not jump into the alleyway that is created between the two fences and therefore do not get into your garden.

 

Garden Access. We took an extra step and created a walk-through arbor into the garden with a gate at the second fence. We never had an elk able to walk into the from arbor.

Important Note: if your two fences are different, elk pay better attention to them. I believe they view them as two obstacles instead of one.

 

Prettiest Wire Fence. I love vintage style wire fences, especially the double looped, cottage style, garden wire that surrounds old homes in small towns. Many gardeners are re-stretching the old wire and buying reproduction wire from new manufacturers. The double loop design can be important because the bottom half of the wire is smaller and will discourage rabbits and large rodents. 

 

Updated and republished from 2013

C Haese, copyright 2024

 

 

 

 

Southwest Bean Poles

 

 

  

Every year, as we plan our garden, we look for better ways to design and improve. We always plant beans and bush varieties are easy to harvest, but a couple of heirloom favorites still require climbing space. Our beloved pole beans are: Kentucky Wonder, Scarlet Runner, Painted Lady, and a 1930 Ozark purple bean. We plant these for the flavorful beans and colorful flowers. The red, white, pink and yellow flowers attract hummingbirds and nectar loving birds and insects.

A Creative Pole Bean Structure. When you want to create structures for sprawling beans, it can be challenging and construction can be labor intensive and expensive. Winter is hard on untreated wooden stakes. Metal posts can detract from natural, woodland settings, and pre-built climbing cages can be costly.

Over twenty years ago we found the perfect material for constructing poles and cages for beans and other climbing vines. Once dried, the Southwest succulents called Agave (a-gaugh-vē) parryi are now our building material of choice. The tall candelabras with dried flowering tops are ideal structures that last for years. Pagination

What is Agave? Agaves have been used by native people for food, fiber, and ornamentation for hundreds of years. The plants are popular with landscapers and gardeners in warm climates. Gardeners use agaves in low water gardens, which adds stunning green and blue colors, texture, and style to landscape design. 

When the agave completes its blooming season, the tall candelabra-like branch or mast (sometimes up to 15 feet high) collapses on the ground. In our mountainous area of New Mexico and Arizona, heavy snowfall in the mountains can also cause the blooms to topple.

A Good Way to Recycle. Since the agave poles are made of dried, natural fiber and wood they can become tall, elegant displays – even before the plants climb to the top. They provide excellent perches for insect eating birds, especially flycatchers and bluebirds, which dive and hunt from these lookouts. As the poles become covered with plants or vines, children can have fun in the teepees, playing hide-and-seek, while searching for beans to pick. It can be a great way to build a natural “fort” for the kids.

When you’re done with the bean poles, simply fold for re-use the next year. Mother Nature and I love to recycle in the garden and these agave poles help the process. After about 3-5 years (depending how you store them, they recycle nicely in the compost bin!

How to Harvest Agave Poles

1. Find an area where agave grows abundantly.
2.  Wear a long sleeved shirt and heavy gloves - watch for the plant’s heavily armed spears on the ends of each succulent leaf.
3.  Use a serrated saw or pruning branch cutters to harvest and trim the dead blooms.
4.  Shake dirt, seeds and other debris from the poles before removing from its original site.
5.  Since the poles are lightweight, secure them in truck bed. They are long (tall) and usually won’t fit in a car.

How to Make Agave Bean Poles

1. Divide the agave poles into piles of similar lengths.
2. Choose four that are approximately the same length and lay on the ground together.
3.  Join them loosely together with a piece of wire or jute string at the top, just below the lowest bloom.
4.  Slowly stand and open the teepee of poles, then secure wire at the top. I like to do this in the garden space to make it easier. Once the beans cover the poles the structure will need to support more weight.
5. Bury each pole several inches into the ground and level in place.
6.  Plant beans in a circle around the base of each pole (about 2” apart).
7. Create a basin or well around the bean poles to allow the seeds and plants to soak up water as they grow. You can install drip hose around the base of teepee if you prefer.
8. As the beans grow, it is necessary to train the beans against the poles with loose fitting jute or gardening ties. After the vines reach the top, the plants will grow easily on their own – climbing around the poles to form the teepees.
9. When the pole beans have taken “hold” – you can also sow sister plants (squash, pumpkin, tomatoes, or greens) in the center of poles. These will grow outward toward light. from the middle.

 

Regulations for Gathering Agave Poles. It’s important to check with the USDA-USFS to see if a permit is required in your area to gather the dead (and fallen) agave wood. If so, it can be considered "free-use" or similar to obtaining a permit for gathering pine cones, seeds or branches. The cost should be minimal (but could be as much as $20) to harvest the dead masts. These permits may only be valid for 30 days, so plan ahead.