Overland Road Historic Trail

We rode Scooter and Bug on a section south of Williams, AZ off USFS Road.

 

 

This route was laid out and built in the summer of 1863 by the Army. It connected the Beale Road with the growing community of Prescott, which experienced a short-lived gold rush. This road left the Beale Road near where Flagstaff is today, and continued west through Garland Prairie to Lockett Spring. Then, it turned southwest to cross Hell Canyon and from there south to Prescott. About 30 miles of the route is located on the Kaibab National Forest. The road was used by the military, immigrants, and freighters between 1863 and 1882, when the railroad was built across northern Arizona. Much of the Overland Road has been covered over by the present-day Forest Service road system, but portions are still visible.

NOTE: The Forest Service has developed the Overland Road into a recreational trail. The route makes use of forest roads and trails which have been marked with rock cairns, brass cap markers, tree blazes, and 4" by 4" wood posts. A treadway has not been cleared on the trail sections, so it can be a challenge to follow. Trailheads with interpretive signs are provided. The trail sections are open only to hikers and horseback riders. Portions of the historic route that are part of the forest road system may be accessed by any means, including motor vehicles and mountain bicycles.


 

From Paul McCartney to Me

The page is old now and turning a bit yellow, but then it's been hanging in my office for almost three decades. I took this out of the concert book from when I attended the Paul McCartney World Tour in Tempe, Arizona and it is still an inspiration to me.

Gardening With the Wind

When The Wind Blows

Gardening with the Wind

Here are a few tip to learn how to help your treasured trees weather the tempests and keep from snapping in the wind. It's not as difficult as you think.

     In Texas they call them Blue Northers. Around the Great Lakes, it's Lake Effect storms. Chinooks create caution from Alberta, Canada south to New Mexico. In Alaska, the Taku storm winds prevail and the California coast braces for the seasonal Santa Anas. Whatever their names, a key ingredient of these storms is wind - and lots of it!

Plant a Tree for Wind Resistance

     How you plant will benefit the plant as it grows and gains the strength for all kinds of weather. Your main objective when you plant a new tree (whether fruit bearing or ornamental) should be to encourage rapid growth and production, coupled with vigor and storm resistance. A tree may appear large and strong, but if the root system is not established properly, a windstorm can leave you with a gaping hole in your well planned landscape. Try these simple steps for planting 

• Break up the root ball ( especially if they are growing in a spiral) and tickle the roots in the bottom of the pot. Better yet, purchase only plants that are well rooted in their containers, but not so root bound that the roots are spreading out of the bottom of their container. 
• My grandpa used to teach, “Dig a $10 hole for a $5 tree”. Today’s horticulture specialists teach a little differently, but the basic theory is sound. Spread the roots outward in the hole. A good rule of thumb is - place the plant in a hole twice as wide as the root ball and deep enough to be able to add organic matter and mulch to the hole in addition to the soil. 
• Finish planting so the final grade or level of the soil is the same as the container the plant was in.

Water Trees to Withstand Winds

     Many types of large trees, like some of those seen on golf courses and lawns are really not suitable for shallow, large volume watering systems provided by sprinklers. Sprinkling does not allow trees to anchor their roots deeply to provide strength against strong winds. Less frequent watering provided slow and deep is best. The way you water your tree in the early stages will determine how it reacts and responds to wind during a storm. Watering close to the trunk encourages the root system to grow in a small pattern, clumping inward toward the trunk. Instead, it's best to move the water source outward as the tree grows - toward the drip line and away from the trunk. If you water the roots in this manner, you will provide added strength to the tree.

     Summertime in the deserts around Phoenix, AZ brings seasonal monsoons. Predictably, the high wind storms create toppled trees. Mature cypress, California pepper, olive trees, and others fall victim to winds over 50 mph. Experts are ready for calls to repair and

remove. The wind damage estimates citywide after these storms can top out in the millions. Toppled trees, watered with shallow sprinkling systems, collapse on their sides and display support systems with shallow roots growing close to the trunks. More evidence of the important of watering properly.

Prune Trees for Wind Resistance

     Most trees grow well with little or no pruning - they've done so for years. In fact, if you look closely at nature, some of the most attractive trees are always less than perfect. Some of the prettiest are the palms that grow sideways, pines angled along the ground or cypress twisted by coastal gales.

      If too many branches develop, competition and shading will allow some branches to grow faster than others. In turn, the small, weak branches will die and drop. Whenever possible, allow your trees to develop with minimal pruning. Prune only to correct obvious structural faults, such as poorly positioned or strongly competing limbs, weak branch attachments, or limbs that are damaged and dead. Remember, when you destroy natural formations - trees react. If a limb is removed, make sure there is a reason for it. Recreational pruners can undoubtedly cause problems that will be difficult to correct in later years. Most experts still abide with the guideline, "prune only 25% of the tree each growing season". Pruning more can cause unnecessary damage. Nature has created a unique way of allowing trees to develop their own manner of balance.

Caring For Trees With Wind Damage

     Broken limbs that occur during severe windstorms should be repaired. When the branches are large or high up on the tree, call a professional. But in home gardening, where do-it-yourself is a part of life, you can cut the limbs yourself and have them fall properly in the intended place with just a few planned practices.

Usually, you can prune trees any time of the year, except when the tree is swelling with new buds or putting on new growth or fruit. A tree in its dormant stage is generally best for consideration. In most areas the ideal month for pruning is December through February. In higher elevations, the season can extend into March or even April.

     Equipment needed for pruning is usually easy to find and inexpensive, although size of the pruning job will dictate the type of tools needed. Hand shears and pruning loppers are handy for small limbs less than one inch in diameter. Hand pruning saws are ideal for use on larger limbs. Chain saws may be needed  for bigger jobs.

     Treating wounds in trees from wind damage with petroleum based tar is not as crucial as previously thought, especially on small cuts. Some nurseries still recommend that all pruning cuts be treated with asphalt salves, Bordeaux paste (a topical fungicide) or other tree healing products. The argument exists that you are making an incision on living tissue (just like a surgeon) so the wounds are subject to infection and disease. But most extension specialists and master gardeners agree that research points in another direction. So what is the treatment of choice by modern professionals? Nothing – leave it alone. Prune to maintain and repair wind damage limb, but then allow the tree (which usually has its own built-in mending system) time to heal naturally.

How to Prune Trees Safely

     Don't forget about safety - an important consideration when working in the garden with any tools. Safety glasses, gloves, sturdy ladders, and when necessary, hard hats and ear protection may be needed. Also, if the tree is large and tall, it may be a good idea to make it a two-person job.

     Broken limbs and split trees that leave an exposed cavity used to be a tree surgeon's dream. Nowadays the reality is... trees usually heal just fine on their own, without a lot of extra expense and cosmetic packaging.

     If you have any questions or doubts, check with your local extension office for proper pruning techniques. It's a free service, with expert guidance.

Full Moon Drum Circle

In celebration of the full moon, I joined friends and neighbors at Watson Lake in Prescott, Arizona for a Drum Circle. I used my favorite drum and enjoyed the infectious rhythm of the drum circle. Loved it! About 20 people drummed and Too Tall Sue complemented the beats with her enchanting flute music. Thank you to everyone.

 

 

The Cactus Wren - Arizona's State Bird

Sentry of Choice
      One insatiably curious bird of the southwest desert can be a surefire venomous snake detector. Gardeners and hikers can detect rattlesnakes easier if you listen for the signal.

Listen to Cactus Wrens 
     I've been around cactus wrens all my life yet had never given them a second thought.  Sure, they're the largest member of the wren family, live throughout the Southwestern desert and are the official Arizona state bird. But they're also pesky, loud, and you have to keep the windows rolled up on your car or they end up inside, spotting the upholstery.

     Over the past years, however, I’ve learned to regard the cactus wren (Campylorhynchus brunneicapillus) as extremely important. These insatiably curious birds of the southwest desert are also expert snake detectors and alarms. I now welcome them enthusiastically to my garden.

Cactus Wrens and Rattlesnakes

     Since cactus wren nests are only three to six feet from the ground, snakes and other reptiles find their eggs and nestlings easy prey. The birds are constantly on the lookout for one particular snake, the western diamondback or “coontail” rattlesnake. Folks who live in the desert sometimes familiarly call this snake Mr. Buzztail. It can be hard to see, as its colors blend perfectly with the desert floor.

     The cactus wren’s keen eyes for predators, specifically rattlesnakes, can be of great importance to humans. Using one primary form of communication, this wren can warn hikers, horseback trail riders, gardeners, bird watchers, naturalists, hunters, outdoor enthusiasts and homeowners of possible impending danger.

     Rattlesnakes like to sleep in abandoned ground squirrel holes. Often these holes are directly under a cactus wren nest. From the moment the snake pokes its head out for a breath of fresh air to begin its daily hunting ritual, the wren family is alert and wary.

     To say I highly respect rattlesnakes is an understatement. Growing up in rural Arizona, I’ve watched them sleep, hunt, kill, fight and even bear their young live. I’ve poked them with a stick, sprayed them with water, and killed them with my gardening shovel, trying in vain to discourage their presence. But most importantly, I’ve learned that I always want to see a rattlesnake before it sees me!

     With a determined, loud, repetitive voice an alert cactus wren sounds the alarm, "Snake!" the bird sentry jabbers repeatedly and ceaselessly. The squawking and loud racket continues as family members join in the chorus. It’s important to note that I have also observed sparrows, bluebirds, thrashers, mockingbirds, jays and other species band together with the wren family to warn of the snake’s presence. As many as 20 birds may gather in a cactus or tree - tattlers on the rattler.  
     I regard this avian audience with high honor. When I hear their distress call I stop what I am doing and cautiously walk in the direction of the scolding calls. I walk very slowly as I get closer to the birds. There are those who prefer a shovel or shotgun, but now I grab my snake stick with a noose on the end. The wrens are relentless, calling and almost pointing to the trespasser. I transport Mr. Buzztail to less inhabited area, away from children, pets, and livestock. And yes, I know also that rattlesnakes have a established territory of about one mile.and relocating them farther away is risky. I usually taken them to an area I know has dens and other rattlers of the same species, then wave goodbye and wish them luck surviving with new competition and environment.

     Many times the birds find a harmless variety of snake, large lizard, or even a raptor in a tree. I just watch with delight as the kamikaze pilots dive at their enemy. I have seen a few brave wrens cautiously peck at the intruding snake’s tail, chasing as it slithers from the contemptuous chorus. I have observed this behavior in many species, but the cactus wren is my sentry of choice. The zealous attitude and undaunted courage are certainly worth watching or recording.

     Once the predator is removed, everything again settles back to normal. Birds return to their daily preening and feeding chores. I return to my gardening or continue my hike. Snakes continue to look for prey in new hunting grounds. And the cactus wren? He’s probably picking bugs from my car windshield or pulling nesting bits from the upholstery.

Cactus Wren Description and Habits

     Cactus wrens flourish where other species cannot. They are somewhat drab in color and extremely well camouflaged. Larger than most wrens, at about 8 1/2 “, they are comparable in size to their look-alike, the sage thrasher. The crown on its head is rust colored. The breast and under parts are shades of white and buff, with black spots – giving it a somewhat dirty look. The unmistakable white-striped eyebrow gives these wrens a cunning look. For the most part, their wings show broken white barring in gray and brown, with the tail striping more pronounced.

     Each cactus wren builds many flask or football shaped nests fairly close to the ground. They usually choose staghorn cholla cactus for their nest site, but may use well-protected Palo Verde trees. The nest contains a passageway leading into a safe haven among the protective thorns.

     Cactus wrens usually build many nests within their family territory. On main nest is used for brooding young birds, with sleeping nests located nearby. The nests are built of branches and twigs and usually lined with soft feathers, fur, cotton, and grasses. If you leave a torn jacket, quilt, or yarn outside, the cactus wren will find it and use the materials for the inner layer of the egg refuge.

     The female cactus wren lays two to five buff or salmon-colored eggs and can raise four or five broods per year. The eggs incubate for 16 days. The monogamous parents share the tasks of incubation and feeding of young. Once fledged, young cactus wrens will occupy nearby sleeping nests in the parents’ territory. They will also help feed and protect new nestlings, maintaining a strong family bond.

     This wren has a fairly wide range, inhabiting parts of Arizona, California, Nevada, New Mexico, Utah, Texas and Mexico. It prefers to live among the sharp spines of cactus and desert trees, and it’s always welcome in my yard.

(originally published in Bird Watcher Digest, Sept/Oct 1992)

Quote of the Week

Elk Proof Fence

Copyright 2013

Elk Proof Fence For Your Garden 

Traditional Elk Fencing. Most elk fencing used in Alaska, Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado and throughout the West measures 7‘-8’ tall. Past experience stipulated that going to greater heights or electrifying the fence was the best way to elk and deer proof an area. This is usually the recommended choice by government agencies to protect highway frontage, pastures and acreage. But this fencing can be expensive, time consuming, difficult to install and may not be ascetically appealing for homeowners.

Elk Proof with Double Fence. We have another fence design that is simple, well designed, environmentally friendly, long lasting and attractive. It is fencing offers another path toward elk and deer proofing your precious landscaping and gardens. It is not taller fencing, but smarter fencing. Simply, it consists of two fences – four feet tall and four feet apart.

Our first attempt to create a garden for our family gave us plenty of wildlife experiences - but no vegetables. The rabbits, gophers and especially deer and elk destroyed the plants before they ripened. Sometimes the elk would just walk around in the garden, tasting, never eating anything - but trampling everything. The first attempt at garden fencing was a 4 ft tall vintage, looped wire design. It was beautiful, but useless when it came to elk.

Our bedroom overlooked the flower and vegetable garden, so we kept our window slightly ajar and listened for the invaders throughout the night. Using this technique, we harvested plenty of sleep deprivation, and gained an education into the nocturnal habits of Rocky Mountain elk (Cervus elaphus nelsoni).

Observing these large, horse-sized creatures trying to enter the garden always followed a precise well-learned process, and was usually instigated by cow (female) elk. Below are the methods they use:

1.    Sizing up the fence. First the elk push against the fence. This tells the elk how tall and how sturdy the fence is built. Elk prefer to enter a garden or yard by simply muscling their way into the structure. It's safer for them and they aren't as likely to get tangled in wire or fencing material. If the fence is not extremely strong (which many are not) this is a fastest way for elk to get to food.

2.    Jump the fence. If the elk are unsuccessful at pushing down a fence, they then attempt to jump from a standing position. The jump is usually easy for them, even at heights of 6 feet or more. Watching them jump a fence looks quite effortless. In reality, they jump only after careful consideration and sizing up the height and width, or if they have jumped the fence in the past. Elk almost always tap the top of the fence with their hind feet, which we always noted as well. Experts believe they “remember” each fence and store its height for reference when fleeing predators.

3.    Repeated process. Each night, the elk start all over: pushing, bumping, leaning, and finally jumping into the forbidden area. The elk would enter and exit the garden on the same side, always away from the house.

4.  Think Outside the Fence. After reading a pioneer Alaskan’s advice on moose fencing and watching the elk purge our garden night after night, we decided to add another fence outside of the original garden fence. We made the fence four feet away from the first one. It was made from juniper poles and rails, and about the same height – 4 feet. The results were immediate and unfailing. We have only had one elk in the garden in five years (we left the gate open).

5.   Size Matters. Elk do not like being restrained in small spaces. They will enter a small area if they can quickly escape - but as prey animals, if they cannot flee, they do not feel safe. This game animal behavior is the basis for the double fence design. Our specifications are below.

Install the 48” high inside fence first. This fence works best if it is made of wire and garden was 25 feet square (25’ x 25’ x 25’ x 25’). This size works well when purchasing a 100 foot roll of fencing. Remember to plan ahead for a gate and leave tops of posts up to 72” tall. Tall posts allow good space for bird houses, gathering baskets and other garden décor.

Measure 4 feet from inside fence, and then install the outside fence. (We determined this measurement using our horse as a model, and standing her between the proposed outside and inside fences. Since four feet was tight for her – we used these dimensions for our fence separation).

6.   Use split cedar, three-rail or wooden slats for outside fence. This fence should be 48” tall. The tops of posts should be set at 50” high and at about 28” deep. The sturdiness of the posts is crucial.  Elk will not jump into the alleyway that is created between the two fences and therefore do not get into your garden.

Note: if each fence is a different style or type, the elk pay better attention to the fences – viewing them as two obstacles instead of one.

Popular Wire Fence. Vintage style, double looped garden wire is once again becoming popular. Gardeners are re-stretching the old wire and buying reproduction wire from new manufacturers. The double loop design can be important because the bottom half of the wire is smaller and will discourage rabbits and large rodents.